Gran Paradiso/Mont BlAnc

 

DAY 1

 

Drove to the base of Gran Paradiso and walked from 2,000 metres to 2,700. Were in a group of 8 people with varying levels of experience but good people. Had a cold for a few days so feeling rough. 1,400 metres tomorrow to the summit. 

Did some training in the afternoon with the crampons, ice axe etc. 


DAY 2

 

5:30 am start as we started the climb to the summit. Pace was slow and a little frustrating. Walking through the ice fall was a good experience and got to climb over a ladder which was a little scary and I almost pulled someone in! luckily we were all roped up and safe. The walk to the summit was comfortable and steady enough and then the final bit was quite technical in terms of climbing up a ladder and then some rocks to the summit. This was steep and had a few wobbly moments but good to control my mind. The decent was easy enough although frustratingly slow and we stayed back in the hut at 2,700 metres to rest up ready to attempt Mont Blanc. This has been my favourite climb so far, a beautiful mountain. 


DAY 3

 

Easy day today, 2 hour walk down back to the car and then to Chamonix to rest up ready to attempt Mont Blanc. Feeling good, although pain in my shin after a run I did the day I flew to this trip.


DAY 4

 

4 hour hike to the camp were staying at ready to push tomorrow. Pace was slow but the weather was nice so no to bad. Was good to have a sleep in the hotel last night so feel more fresh. The last hour was good as a steep climb up a rock face. Sleeping at 3,150 metres tonight. Sun set was incredible and the best ive ever seen for sure. Another beautiful mountain. 


DAY 5

 

Early start for the climb to the top of Mont Blanc. Groups of 3 now, myself, another client and the guide. We roped together for the whole climb up. We did around 90 minutes up a steep rock face where we stayed at a hut for an hour or so. The next 90 minutes was a slow slog up steep snow, zig zagging across. Pace was slow. Once you get to around 4,000 metres you see whats to come in terms of a steep climb towards the summit and I can see why people would turn around here! Mentally it tests you for sure. I loved the next couple of hours to the summit as it was a real grind and I was in pain with my shin but it was that satisfying type of suffering pain. The last 200 metres was scary as you’re on a narrow ridge and feel very exposed. We reached the summit which was stunning and got out of there! The way down was interesting as I got to lead so set the pace! We got down in good time but had one scary moment when I slipped into a crevasse but luckily my axe gripped into the snow in front and the rope held. It was only when back in the hut that a fellow climber brought it up and that he thought my life flashed in front of his eyes! I haven’t told the wife about that yet (she wont read this!). Back at the lodge was a satisfying feeling and was glad to be back down safe and well. We still have a tough way down in the morning of around 5 hours but the first 2 is very steep and going to be in a storm! 


DAY 6

 

Early start and the storm has come in! lots of snow and ice and the wind was wild. I lead again and had some fun down this steep icey rock face. Was scary at times but reminded me of my childhood when I would spend the winter exploring the Welsh mountains so I get excited more than scared. Every step down though my right shin was throbbing, I just had to block it out. We got back down to the car in around 5 hours and a real sense of satisfaction as not many have had the chance to summit this season due to the extreme weather and terrible rock fall. We were the lucky ones this time. Time for a shower and get home!


DAY 7

 

While away I developed a gradual onset on right anterior shin pain, after discussing the injury with my Physiotherapist, he felt it was due to the combination of the intense mountaineering training schedule and Mont Blanc trip, which was a very challenging, technical climb. The distal shin was visibly swollen and painful during the recent trip but fortunately I was able to successfully complete the summit of the Mont Blanc. The pain was severe at times and best described as a lancing type pain in the lower shin felt on every step towards the end of the climb. On returning to the UK after an assessment and MRI scan it was diagnosed as a medial tibial grade I stress response with a direct muscle injury to the tibialis anterior muscle. Treatment has included off loading the tibia and soft tissue treatment through the anterior compartment of the lower leg. During this time I have continued to work on my conditioning in the gym whilst resting my shin and am pleased that my pain is now well settled and I hope to now recommence some light specific climbing training 3 to 4 weeks after returning from Mont Blanc. 

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